To preface the autumn festival holiday, I should mention the visa issues up to this point. When I came back from Hong Kong, I was on an L-class tourist visa that expired November 8th, which is in the middle of the holiday when the visa-extension office is closed. In addition, I was told that the extension started the day I applied, so I would want to apply as late as possible, but the later you apply, the more dangerous it gets. The sequence of event ends up being: going to the extension office, realizing that I was missing some materials, going to the police office to redo my residence permit because I changed to a new visa, going to the visa office again and getting it extended after a five day turnaround (turns out, they will extend it the full period), picking up a temporary passport- essentially the receipt stapled to a picture and stamped with various red seals. This all occurs during various mornings and afternoons over a three day period. Not terribly efficient.
The XinJiang trip started for me on Friday, which meant that I had to take two days out of my annual leave because we were expected to work the Friday and Saturday before the break. For some reason, the travel agency thought it best to book my flight to Urumuqi in the airport at the exact opposite end of the subway line I was on(Hongqiao), instead of the airport at my end (Pudong), which would have taken me thirty minutes. After getting laughed at by an attendant for screwing up the electronic check-in and getting rushed through the premier line because even though I left at 5:30 for an 8:00 train, i was just barely in time, I made it to West China. After a day I met up with my parents and their four friends.
I started typing out events in chronological order, but I decided against it; I'll just go through individual topics.
I would say that there are three primary biomes that I traveled through: desert, grassy plains, and forest. I happened to really enjoy all of them (perhaps its in my blood?) Deserts in Urumuqi were a chalky white dotted with rows of young trees, which I can only assume were planted as part of a local erosion project. In the "Devil's Valley", the desert was more sandy and red-colored, filled with odd rock formations and columns looked right out of National Geographic (especially since we came around Golden Hour). Huge oil derricks were sometimes the only man-made constructions breaking the horizon, almost like mythical beasts rhythmically grazing on sand. The desert in DenHuang was half rock cliffs and caves, half giant sand dunes. The main dune was a huge tourist attraction. Multiple convoys of camels would make loops from this point, reminiscent of some sort of brightly colored tourist army, especially from the top of one of the dunes. Running down the side of a dune is probably the most fun that I've had on the trip; having to dump sand out of your shoes at the bottom was a minor inconvenience.
The grass on the plains was not like California's at all. While California's is fairly long and grows golden, XinJiang's plains are short, pale and fine. Look far enough and you would think you were looking at fake model grass. Sheep and cattle were common, the former much more than the latter. On the plains, white yurts were much more common. Sometimes small rocky formations would breach the plains, but they only added perspective to the huge expanses of pale green on blue. We didn't do much activity in the plains though, which was quite unfortunate. I think it would be awesome to go backpacking there one day.
I normally don't care for forests; perhaps I've just seen too many up to this point. XinJiang's forests, though, were quite a sight. During autumn, every tree was bright yellow, so that the primary color theme, especially in Kanas national park, was blue and yellow for water, mountains, and sky. What really pleased me, was that a majority of the trees were poplars and aspens, members of my favorite tree species. There's something about white bark, a long, thin trunk, almost invisible branches, and yellow, circular leaves that makes a good impression on both sight and hearing. Apparently the national park was a favorite for training of the national photographer's association, or so I've been told. I would believe it, as people with tripods and huge camera lenses were everywhere.
The local people in that particular national park lived in log cabins and generally looked very different from Han Chinese. Some of the young boys would even start out with blonde hair, which would gradually turn to black as they grew older. The natives were overall much more western, with bigger eyes and eyelashes, more olive skin color, and different facial structure and noses. Some were definitely lookers. Interestingly enough, there are a few traditions in regards to women that I thought were quite odd. Women would strive to give daughters a unibrow look, as it means that they wouldn't move far from home when married. If a woman remained slim after she got married, it means her husband wasn't feeding her enough. Women were pretty subservient to men in traditional Uygher culture. This one was learned at a traditional meal-type event, where the men in our group had to wear traditional hats and sit on the side of the table with a backrest, while the women kind of sat on their side on a ledge facing the exit so they can easily go get things. Kind of uncomfortable. On that topic, men there seem to be a bit more feminine looking, imo. They make up for this by sporting sporty mustaches. There weren't too many people until the end of the trip, where so many tourists came that at one point while visiting some caves, we stood for around fifteen to thirty minutes in line just to get into thirteen small caverns each. I feel as if the tourist experience is less interactive in China compared to the West, but that may be because of the sheer amount of people seeing it. Although it was silly to me that they disallowed flash in the caves, but were fine with both flashlights and fluorescent lighting.
Food there was mostly various types of sheep and noodles. Most things had this nice spice on it that wasn't too strong, but very flavorful. Some highlights included sheep kebabs, roast whole sheep, sheep broth (there was a lot of sheep), and this type of noodles that was served by stir-frying the vegetable/meats separately, and then having the patron themselves combine them together. Naan was also popular, although quite different from indian or nepal-type naan. Dried grapes and dates were also quite common. In the same place which taught us Uygher traditions, we got a lesson on how to purchase good raisins. Apparently one of the tricks is to have different quality raisins on the front and back of those huge piles of dried fruit in open air markets. The vendor would grab the lower quality raisins from the back and pass them off as higher quality ones. We were also told that if we expressed interest at a shop in a bazaar and didn't' buy, there would be trouble. Anyway, I've become quite partial to raisins with the seeds and a bit of stem inside. Nice combination of chewy and crunchy. Surprisingly, their wine was pretty bad.
There wasn't really anything to buy there as souvenirs besides raisins. Camel plashes were everywhere, as well as various types of minerals, such as jade, ect. Thin shawls were common too; probably to protect against the sun. The days were warm and the nights were fairly cold. I actually got sick with congestion because of a miscommunication, which resulted in me having a sweatshirt as my thickest layer (insufficient). Traveling from destination to destination essentially consisted of me sitting in the backseat of the van, alternately looking out the window, dozing, or fiddling with my iPad and listening to music. Some periods of time were up to five hours long. It's a bit too much traveling for my tastes, especially the sleeper car. Turns out, one doesn't get much sleep when there are two loud snorers in the room. At least most of the restrooms were clean and regular, although definitely there were some that were just platforms elevated above open air shitpiles.
Let me finish by recounting my favorite highlights. Staying at a music-themed hotel was pretty cute. At one point at the sky pool in Urumuqi, there were about 5 wedding couples doting the field in front of me posing for studio photos. Winding wooden stairs among poplars and blue sky have to be one of the most picturesque scenes. Sunset while standing on a sandstone column in the middle of an empty desert is pretty surreal. Walking among the ruins of an ancient civilization away from the crowds is pretty fantastic, especially when you run into destroyed temples. Again, running down a sand dune is awesome. Reading about the discovery of the silk road caves at DenHuang was informative, as well as seeing all the massive construction projects such as the kazahks? and the western great wall (they used local materials for each portion of the wall, so that they all look extremely different from each other).
Other than that trip, two interns managed to leave since I last blogged; unfortunately, they were the foreign interns I was closest to here (both German). I don't know if we'll stay in contact. I do hope so though; Facebook should help. One of them had studio pictures of him and his girlfriend done in Shanghai, which was funny because he was too tall for most of the clothes and they asked him to totally shave, for whatever reason. They came out pretty good though, although definitely at times hilarious.
Another one of the Chinese interns signed up for Facebook. It's too late to hide my pictures now though, sigh. For now, I'm back in California until the 27th of October; we'll see how it goes.






